There’s still plenty of loading going on where the trucks once drew up. But now the loading is from the plate into the mouth. What still remains are the high ceilings, the glass and the iron – principally the industrial design. The cuisine, in contrast, is somewhat random, combining French with Italian, Asian with German fare. But does it really matter? It all ends up in the same place after all.

What to expect, however, is not so easy to predict, as the menu changes monthly. So if you insist on trying everything you’ll have to plan more than one visit. Others will have to make do with what’s there, including a view of Cologne going about its daily life.

www.koeln.de